Pinnacle Flashlights Blog

In its stock form, the EagleTac M2/M2X uses the controller ring on the bezel to smoothly switch between the following modes: Off > Low > Med > High > Turbo > Strobe. Additionally, the stock tailcap can be swapped out for the M25 module to add a click switch to the either the M2 or M2X. With the click switch the user often does not require that the bezel have an “off” position. Also, some users do not need the strobe and accidentally trigger it while trying to switch the light to turbo output. This article will show you how to disable both the “off” and “strobe” features using commonly available items. The modification should take less than 5 minutes to complete!

Note: Pinnacle Flashlights is not responsible for personal injuries or damages caused to your EagleTac M2/M2X while attempting to perform this modification.

Step 1: You will need the following items:    - EagleTac M2/M2X    - Masking Tape    - Scissors    - Super Glue    - Paper Clip    - Old Hotel/Credit Card
Step 2: Orient the M2/M2X so that the tailcap is towards you and the bezel is facing away. Place a piece of the masking tape around the bezel right above the selector ring. The tailcap should be clicked “on” and the bezel rotated all the way to your “left” in the “off” position. Mark on the tape the position of the left edge of the large tab. Now, rotate the ring to the “right” until the light turns on “low”. Again, mark on the tape the position of the left edge of the tab. The tape will have 2 markings like the image to the right.
Step 3: Rotate the ring completely to the “right” so that it is in “strobe”. Mark on the tape the position of the left edge of the same tab used in Step 2. Rotate the ring to the “left” until the light switches to “turbo”. Again, mark on the tape the position of the left edge of the tab. Your tape should have 2 additional markings like the image to the right.
Step 4: At this point, the tape should have 4 markings. Note that they may or may not be equal.
Step 5: Remove the bezel. Remove the selector ring by gently pulling it over the threaded end of the bezel. Observe the slot in the bezel where the selector ring stops.
Step 6: Observe the slot in the bezel on the other side where the selector ring stops. Clean the grease off of both of these areas with a cotton swab or tissue.
Step 7: Cut a sliver of the credit card about the width of the notch in the bezel. Then cut 2 pieces which will be the lengths of the 2 measurements made on the tape.
Step 8: The 2 plastic pieces can be slightly bent to better fit the curvature of the bezel
Step 9: Test fit the pieces. Note that the piece for the “off to low” goes on the “left” side of the slot and the piece for the “strobe to turbo” goes on the right side. Place a small strip of super glue on the bezel and carefully place the plastic pieces in their appropriate locations. Press them down firmly with a paper clip and remove any excess glue.
Step 10: Give the glue sufficient time to set and dry. The finished product should look like the image to the right. Replace the selector ring and reattach the bezel to the body!

So how well does this modification work? Check out the video below!

See the entire line of the world’s toughest, brightest, and most advanced flashlights at www.PinnacleFlashlights.com

It is often difficult to judge how large a flashlight is based solely on dimensions and a photo with no points of reference. This article will show you the extremely small size of some of our products and the incredible amounts of light that they produce.

Here are some images for size reference:

Fenix LD01	Fenix LD10	Fenix E20	Fenix TK10
Nitecore D10	Nitecore EX10	Nitecore Defender	Nitecore Extreme

Now that you have an idea of the size of each of these lights, we will show just how much light each one can put out. The “control” image will be the well known and very commonly carried Maglite Minimag AA.

Maglite Minimag AA	Fenix LD01
Nitecore Extreme	Fenix TK10

Check out the complete interactive beamshot comparison at the Pinnacle Flashlights Light Tunnel

This video demonstrates the ability of the Nitecore EX10 LED flashlight to operate while submerged in approximately 10 feet of water.

The Nitecore EX10 is a state of the art LED flashlight with quite possibly the world’s most advanced user interface. It is extremely small in size and weight and is suitable for every day carry. It features an infinitely variable digitally-controlled circuit to regulate light output. The latest R2 version runs off of a single 123A lithium battery and has a maximum output of 145 lumens. The body is constructed of 7075 military-grade aluminum and is finished with an exceptionally durable Type III hard anodized finish.

Below is a video of the underwater demonstration:

Over the next couple of weeks we will be presenting various tests that showcase the durability and ruggedness of our products here at www.PinnacleFlashlights.com

Today we will be testing the durability of the Nitecore Defender Infinity (NDI) LED. The NDI is a state of the art flashlight that was designed for military or law enforcement use. It is compact and light weight which makes it suitable for every day carry (EDC). It features a unique infinitely variable digital processor that regulates output from 5 to 145 lumens. The casing is crafted from military grade aluminum alloy and hard anodized to a mil-spec type III finish. The Cree R2 LED is protected by an impact resistant optical lens with anti-reflective coating and is waterproof to IPX-8 standards.

This test will show the Defender Infinity’s ability to function flawlessly in freezing temperatures. We begin the test with the NDI turned on and submerged in about 2 inches of water.

We then proceed to place the entire container into the freezer. After a couple hours, the unit is removed and the ice block is removed from the casing.

         
The Nitecore Defender Infinity continues to operate after a couple hours in the freezer and being frozen in a solid block of ice. It is designed for specialists who demand that their equipment handle the harshest of conditions. When your life is on the line, don’t settle for anything other than the best. See the complete Nitecore line at www.PinnacleFlashlights.com

Have you ever purchased a flashlight which advertised that it would run for 200 hours, but when you actually went to use it only lasted for 5 hours before it became so dim that you had to change batteries? This is because the 200 hour number usually means 200 hours of “useful light” which is usually defined (somewhere in fine print often not found on the package) as less than 3 lumens or so. Not exactly the same thing as 200 hours of full brightness!

The problem is, in a normal circuit, LEDs and bulbs will draw less energy from normal batteries as they get weaker and become dim as a result. This phenomenon explains the fact that cheap flashlights are reasonably bright at first, but steadily dim as less and less energy can be taken from the batteries, which end up feeding a small amount of energy to the emitters for a long time. The good thing is, many of the modern LED flashlights (and a very few incandescent) on the market use regulation circuits to balance the 5-hour and 200-hour numbers out by keeping the energy coming from the batteries at the rate it started with. This means you get more time at full brightness and less time with less brightness.

As with everything, one solution isn’t always the best one for every need. Some lights have regulation circuits which will remove practically all the energy from the batteries before allowing the brightness to decrease, which means that the light will usually go from full-power to dead with a short and very-low dim “moon-mode” before the light shuts down completely. For most situations, this is fine, and results in the best brightness for the longest period of time. However, some lights have regulation circuits that will keep the brightness the same for most of the batteries’ life, but intentionally dim the light before the batteries are completely dead to give the user a longer and brighter moon-mode. Neither setup is better, it just depends on what you want. Regardless of which you choose, an effective and efficient regulation circuit is a critical part of a high-quality light.